niagara falls.

We were racing nightfall, with sunshine fading fast as we drove west towards Niagara Falls. The driving wasn't as busy as Manhattan, but Chelsea was actively navigating the entire way. We eventually ended up taking the non-scenic route through the back suburbs and industrial properties of the city, which was neat.

Despite my reassurance, Christian was convinced he'd be letting me down if we didn't make it to the falls before the sun set. I was just happy to be en route given the hiccups we'd had with the ac compressor earlier that day. It was the only place I'd specified wanting to go on our entire roadtrip, so to actually get there was enough for me.

There were pictograph signs to follow once we were close. After parking we raced to water's edge, and I went from tired/nervous to giddy once I saw the rapids above the falls. There's at least a quarter mile of good looking ledge holes and wave trains (technical terms) above the horizon line of American falls. I only saw one problematic must-make move in the entire section.

"And that line has a massive must-make boof at the end!"

Even though the detour to the falls was for me, watching Christian run up to the rushing water when we got near was well worth the trip. He's a raft guide, which means he obsesses about water and the lines through rapids. He stood there in absolute awe of the massive waves for a solid minute before we were able to move on to check out the falls.

Due to the season and a handful of construction projects, most of the viewing platforms were closed. The crowd at the falls was concentrated to a small amount of space, and we had to vie for uninterrupted shots. This became even harder when Chelsea wanted to do some longer exposures later in the evening. Regardless, it was magical.

Another view of American Falls.

When we first got to the falls and struggled to find a spot for photos that wasn't completely filled with people in our background, we were both a bit underwhelmed by it all. It wasn't until we did a little walking and poking around that we realized we weren't even at the massive Horseshoe Falls yet. We stumbled our way to a path that wound around through a poorly marked and poorly lit park, finally making our way to the other side and on to the famed falls I'd been anticipating.

On our way to the main falls. 

As you can see, the best viewing area for the main falls were completely iced over and therefore closed to the public.

Night fell and Canada turned on the lights. The falls glowed white, pink, yellow and green as the lenses changed across the border. A drizzle started to fall, but we ignored it. The falls are a different place at night, and arriving late turned out to be a blessing.

Despite the fact that the best viewing areas for the main falls were also blocked off due to the massive chunk of ice covering most of it, once the spotlights turned on, we couldn't help but gasp in amazement at the scene before us. The contrast between the Canadian side and the US side is quite stark, with high-rises and colored lights lining our northern friends and a dark lush park on our side. I was disappointed at first at what this did to our view until night fell and it added a nice cityscape to the background of all my photos. 

Stunned by the whitewater.

We ended the night with a couple more hours of driving west. After a quick Walmart shopping trip, we parked at a truck stop, cooked dinner, and went to bed in an ambulance that was really starting to feel like home.

We decided that Backpacker's Pantry should sponsor us.

- Christian

-Chelsea

the breakdown.

Our morning drive out of Vermont and into New York was perfect. It took us through some gorgeous towns and winding roads that were a far cry from the thousand-plus miles of interstates we knew lay ahead. With nothing but the cost of diesel in our way, we chugged towards Niagara Falls with the intentions of staying nearby for the night and exploring the falls early the next morning before beginning the massive trek home.

About an hour after Christian took over the wheel, he aimed for an exit ramp to a service station. Excited that he'd sensed my impending need to empty my tiny bladder, I hadn't realized there was an odd sound and smell eminating from the engine. As soon as we'd pulled off and began to slow, I too noticed the sound and smell. We quickly parked and popped the hood to inspect. It was immediately apparent what the origin was, as we found a small trickle of smoke wafting up at us from the belt around the AC compressor. Apparently, the compressor had somehow seized up and was now static as the belt spun around it, creating a massive amount of friction.

Being that it was well past closing time for any garages nearby, we opted to head to the next main exit to a truck stop for the night and figure out a plan. Christian did some Googling and made a few phone calls to local shops, leaving messages explaining our situation and asking for a callback as soon as they opened the next day. Given our predicament, we did the only thing we could…we popped a few beers and hunkered down for the night, hopeful that we could get our dear Campbulance into a shop first thing in the morning.

We got up bright and early the next morning and made some coffee with anticipation that we'd soon be heading down the road to a nearby shop. We received a phone call from one of the shops we'd called the night before and they immediately referred us to Dave's Service Center knowing that they worked on diesels. I slurped down the rest of my coffee as Christian made the call to prep Dave's for our arrival.

Dave's made quick work of diagnosing the problem and figuring out the solution…we needed a new AC compressor. Lucky for us, we got there just under the deadline to get same-day parts, so they ordered it quickly and assured us we'd be on our way by 3pm. That gave us an entire morning and afternoon to explore the nearby city of Geneva, so we grabbed our daypack and set off on a walk.

Knowing that we'd have few opportunities to blog on the road, we set out for the library to make use of their free internet and do some catching up. After a few hours of photo editing and blog-writing, we decided it was time to take advantage of the beautiful weather and go exploring.

As inconvenient as the engine trouble was, we ended up having a blast walking around Geneva and exploring the shops and lake. I think we were both grateful for the mandatory break it gave us from the road. After poking around shops and thrift stores, exploring the nearby lake and filling up on a tasty lunch, we figured it was time to head back to Dave's and see what progress had been made.

True to their word, Dave's had Campbulance all ready to roll by 3pm and we were on our way west with renewed confidence and one thing on our mind…making it to Niagara Falls before nightfall.

We've taken to yelling "Whoop whoop!" at every ambulance we see on the road now…

- Chelsea